On the October 3, 2020 the Prime Minister Narender Modi opened the strategic Atal Tunnel Rohtang for public that connects Kullu Valley with Lahaul  permanently with great fanfare. For more than a generation, this was a mirage in the distance for Lahaulis. Now Rohtang Tunnel  is a reality bringing both "bitter and sweet dreams" for Lahaulis. It promises  both prosperity  and a potential loss of a unique culture and ecosystem that has been preserved by Lahaulis over the  centuries if Lahaulis do not  wake up to this new reality in time. 

A few days after the opening of the tunnel, a viral video began doing the rounds in various Lahauli WhatsApp groups. An auto rickshaw appeared round a bend in Lahaul before zipping  its way taking the local bystanders with awe.  For the valley people, who were more used to JCB machines, bulldozers, caravans of military vehicles and buses, the tiny foreign auto rickshaw bumbling through the Lahaul valley for the first time was a thing of astonishment. 

The arrival of this foreign object from the other side of mighty Rohtang Pass  marks the beginning of the end of an age where the valley was cut-off from civilization for a good part of six months in winter months due to snow. 

The opening of the tunnel has now empowered the locals to take matters into their own hands. Whether it is a medical emergency, a death in the family, an urgent requirement for certain conveniences or an occasion for celebration – the tunnel is a magical portal to zip through the new hole in the snowbound Rohtang Mountain to reach the other side. 

A “Hole in the mountain” has opened up a pandora's box  of some “unknown”.  The snow, cold, disease and scarcity of resources are all familiar foes  that locals have learnt to deal with over the ages. But the fear of the unknown can create both real and imaginary monsters that are likely to raise their head in the course of time due to various obvious reasons. 

 Day Long Trip

However the first noticeable change is the homecoming of the non-resident Lahaulis who are now making a beeline for the landlocked valley frequently. Locals have been leaving the valley seeking better education, opportunities and prospects every year. As a result, the local population who stay back, has been dwindling in the valley over the years. 

Abhishek, a professional from Lahaul, who is now working from home based in Manali says, “Earlier going to Lahaul was part of an elaborate plan. Now it’s a few hours  trip. You can pack your food in the morning, have lunch in Lahaul and be back home in Manali by the evening.” Over the course of the last five months he has visited his native village in Lahaul over seven times for various reasons. He took his newborn daughter to her great grandmother in Lahaul and also stocked  the ration and groceries for the coming long winter.

The second is improved efficiency. The helicopter services are no longer missed. There is also less pressure on the Border Roads Organization to keep the old route via Rohtang pass open. This has resulted in significant savings for the government. 

Atal tunnel is a shorter route for people moving in and out of the valley that has also reduced logistics costs and enabled Lahauli families, who have interests in both Lahaul and outside, to shuttle more often and divide their time more efficiently.

The third is the availability of vegetables and fruits in Lahaul year round. Most of us take this for granted. But in the winters, vegetables are a luxury in  Lahaul. The locals grow some varieties for personal consumption but the options are limited. Now a  rare feast on a variety of green vegetables soaked in homemade ghee with thick fermented rotis can cheer up even the most miserable of souls on a gloomy winter night in Lahaul now. 

The fourth is the active participation of the district and state administration in the proceedings of the winter. M.S. Gill, former Chief Election Commissioner, observed in his book on Lahaul & Spiti that during his time, officers posted as Deputy Commissioner in Lahaul considered it a punishment posting- a time when Lahaul remained shut for outsiders for six months till the recent past. 

However, recently when some members of the new batch of young civil servants visited Lahaul in the winter as part of their onboarding program, they found the place beautiful and an exciting frontier to work in if given an opportunity. If the valley is able to attract new talent, be it civil servants, doctors, engineers and so on, it would bode well for the locals.

Tourists are welcome but sans facilities they bring in Trash  

The fifth and the most obvious one is the arrival of tourists by the droves. Today most tourists are day visitors. The pictures of trash and junk are becoming a matter of concern. All this can change once there is better infrastructure to support tourists. 

However, at present the infrastructure is limited if not entirely non-existent. Even basic facilities like toilets, garbage bins, parking space or guidance to arriving tourists are missing. 

Social media is littered with pictures of bottles of alcohol, plastic waste bags, disposable plates and trash in general across the valley. 

Prem Chand, President, Save Lahaul Spiti Society says, “The foundation stone of the tunnel was laid in 2010. For 10 years the administration paid no attention to the development of tourism infrastructure. 

Three years ago, the Society had urged the government to form the District Tourism Development Council for Lahaul & Spiti, where all stakeholders and public representatives would be included to tackle tourism related issues. But no action has been taken till date. We have only seen the lean season so far. One can imagine what will happen in peak season, Katoch said. 

Clash of Culture 

The clash of cultures is inevitable. On a good touristy day, it is not uncommon to notice massive SUV cars blaring loud music while crossing the tunnel, or groups of young men dancing on the road sides with their shirts off. There have also been some reports of eve teasing and thefts, something that was unheard of in Lahaul before, allege locals. 

Vijay Kapoor, ex-Pradhan of panchayat in Lahaul  and a farmer, says, “During the harvesting season, it is normal for us to leave sacks of potatoes on the fields or near the usual pick-up points for buyers. This time there have been reports of hundreds of sacks of potatoes stolen from multiple locations which is very unusual for us. Even bags of vermi-compost have gone missing. In the village of Phuda, apples were stolen and orchards emptied overnight.”

However, the most serious risk of all that can have long lasting consequences on the sensitive ecology of Lahaul will be the renewed enthusiasm among project developers to take up hydro-electric power projects in the valley due to the all weather road connectivity. 

Guiding Light

Needless to say, Lahaul is undergoing a churn. As M.S. Gill suggests in his book, the Lahauli people are intelligent, hardworking, proud, and objectively receptive to new ideas - a closely knit community with a strong tradition of helping each other move forward together. Those traits could yet be our guiding light as we move ahead into a future. They need sustained efforts to preserve and protect local rich cultural and ecological heritage. The Local NGOs  and local administration should chip in to nip the evil in the bud. 

(To be Concluded)

(Ateesh Kropha is a writer and  technocrat  from Lahaul-Spiti and a contributor to HimbuMail. His Views expressed in the article are his personal)